WWW – Winter Whitney Worries

On this coming Tuesday night I will leave to drive to Lone Pine to start the climb of Mt Whitney.  This mountain is the highest in the continental United States and will be a great bookend to the summits of Aconcagua (22,841′ – January 2008) – the highest in Latin America and Denali (McKinley) (20,320′) – the highest in North America.  Though Whitney is only 14,505′, and a relatively easy climb in the summer – a winter assault is a different thing altogether.

Very similar to climbing Rainier (14,411′) with altitude climb and snow conditions, I now realize that what I thought would be a simple and satisfying climb, will be nothing like that given the current and planned conditions.

I spoke to one of the guides the other day and found out the following:

- Our packs will be between 50-55lbs each

- We have to start 3 miles earlier and 2,000′ lower due to massive snow conditions, which mean we will ascend 8,000 vertical feet in just three days.

- We will be roped up a good part of the time, which can create unwanted tension in the team and arguments due to speed on the way up or down

- The last part of the climb, just before the summit, involves setting up fixed line ropes (like going up the wall in Denali)

- And worst, there are no toilets along the way, which means – well – wag bags and – uh – carrying out anything we bring up (though it is in a different form going up than going down)

We will wear double plastic boots, bring full parkas and -20 sleeping bags, carry all fuel, food, tents, and group gear of course.  And with the sudden increase in altitude (and no time for real acclimatization) altitude sickness is a potential problem (though Diamox will help).

And to just add to the degree of difficulty, in a mad moment, I decided it would be a good idea to run a marathon (Napa Valley – 36 hours from now) just a few days before starting the climb.  (Which is forecast for 1-2″ of rain and wind …)

And given work schedules, 80 hour work-weeks, travel and other commitments, I just haven’t had the time to do many pack workouts (though in fairness, my legs have had plenty of running, core has had strength training and I am at a good weight).  Luckily I have a supportive CEO and a great team behind me to manage the four work-days that I am out.

So, my biggest worries are around the weather – which until this point – I have mostly been able to control.   It has been massively snowing in the Sierras during the past week and the forecast for the coming week calls for unsettled conditions and snow storms throughout the climb.  This will be the biggest unknown.

Therefore, I need to control what I can control, bringing the right clothes, being prepared and careful, and not trying to do anything stupid.  The good news is that there are no crevasses like Rainier or Denali, though we will all wear avalanche transmitters – which, along with the weather, will be the biggest physical worries.  Plus, it is short in time-length, just four days up and down, not three weeks of misery and waiting.  We’ll either make it or not.

Though I’m worried, as normal before these things, weather permitting, it should be a straightforward climb and hoping for a good group that will have fun and come back with all digits intact.

And – the summit day is on my birthday so that would be special.

And bringing down those wagbags, but not for souvenirs!